Leopard gecko care

An adult needs a floor space of at least 90 × 45 cm; height matters less because they rarely climb. Provide three hides: a warm dry hide, a cool dry hide, and a humid hide filled with damp sphagnum moss on the warm side. The humid hide is where your gecko will shed, so keep it moist.

A soil and sand mix, slate tiles or paper towel all work as substrate. Avoid loose calcium sand, which can cause impaction if swallowed.

Leopard geckos absorb warmth through their belly, so under-tank heating or a low-wattage deep heat projector on a thermostat is ideal. Aim for a warm-side surface temperature of 30 to 32 °C and a cool side of 24 to 26 °C. Night-time can drop to around 20 °C.

A low-level UVB tube (2 to 5 %) is optional but beneficial, especially for animals that are not consistently supplemented with vitamin D3.

Feed gut-loaded live insects: crickets, dubia roaches, locusts and the occasional mealworm or waxworm as a treat. Juveniles eat daily; adults every two to three days. Dust insects with calcium at most feeds and a multivitamin with D3 once a week.

A fat, plump tail is a sign of a well-fed gecko. A thin tail means something is wrong.

Give a new gecko a week to settle before handling. Start with short sessions close to the ground and let the gecko walk from hand to hand rather than gripping it. Never hold a leopard gecko by the tail; it can drop.

See a reptile vet if you notice stuck shed on the toes, a tail that is losing weight, or several missed sheds.